Ways Santiago

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE

                We begin in the municipal area of Barcelos, in Macieira de Rates, passsing through Alto da Mulher Morta (the Dead Woman’s Peak), along a sandroad, flanked on either side by stone walls which border on thickets and agricultural properties, to the village of Courel, which has a nucleus of well preserved farmhouses. A slight detour is made here, going past the Parish Church, and returning to the original path further on.

                The Way to Santiago continues, already in the area of the village of Gueral, but we lose track of it in a walled Estate (Quinta do Loureiro), inside which one can find a few abandoned “Alminhas” (small shrines dedicated to saintly figures), so we will have to go around it, following a tarred road.

                At Pedra Furada it is worthwhile visiting the enigmatic “pedra furada” (perforated rock), near the Parish Church, which lends its name to the village. We then go past the Capela da Senhora das Brotas (a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Blossoms).

                Between the villages of Pedra Furada and Góios we will have to go along the National Road, which traces the Way to Santiago, there being no other alternative (Take care here).

                On entering Pereira, immediately after the Capela da Senhora da Guia (a chapel dedicated to Our Lady the Guide), the route follows cobbled paths. In this village you should visit the Monte da Franqueira, where you will find the Faria Settlement and Castle, the Bom Jesus of Franqueira Convent, its Calvary and chapels as well as the Chapel of Our Lady of Franqueira, where a pilgrimage is held annually, on the 2nd Sunday in August, when the statue is brought from the Mother Church in Barcelos. This place is also an excellent viewpoint, where the seacoast can be seen from the viewing terrace.

                Already in Carvalhal, crossing the road which now leads to Monte da Franqueira, the Way to Santiago takes us past the Alminhas of Portocarreiro and the Holy Cross Chapel, then leading to the village of Mereces, already in Barcelinhos.

                To enter Barcelinhos, a detour is necessary, so as to avoid the new access roads to Barcelos. Here it is worthwhile visiting the chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Bridge - established in 1328 as a chapel providing shelter to the Santiago pilgrims. It was rebuilt in the 13th century, but under the stones of the present verandah, you will still be able to see the stone seats and basins (used for footwashing). This chapel, together with the Carvalho da Ponte (the Bridge Oak), the Bridge and the Palace of the Counts of Barcelos, constitutes the Coat of Arms of Barcelos. If you can, enjoy the riverside swimming area, which has undergone landscaping renovation.

                We enter Barcelos at the medieval bridge over the Cávado River. The city of Barcelos is an urban centre of medieval origin, unmistakeable in its historic centre, delineated by parts of a 15th century fortress wall. This was the first Portuguese county, established by D.Dinis in 1298. D.Nuno Álvares Pereira was the 7th Count of Barcelos whose home, though changed, can still be seen in the Largo de Apoio. The 8th Count of Barcelos, D.Afonso, was the 1st Duke of Bragança. In 1640, when the House of Bragança succeeded to the throne, Barcelos was granted a Royal Charter once more, which brought it protection and some privileges.

                Places to visit in Barcelos:

                The Pillory (15th-16th centuries).

                The Pinheiro manor-house (14th-16th centuries). On the cornice one can see two male busts, one of which is wearing a cap and holding his beard - the “barbadão (the great-bearded one) (15th century).

                The Mother Church (14th-18th centuries). The façade, on the upper side, is the result of renovation work undertaken in the 1940’s, when a rose-window and bell-tower were added, maintaining its gothic doorway, where romanic motifs can still be seen. The 18th century tiles and organ, which you will find inside the building, are remarkable.

                The ruins of the Palace belonging to the Counts of Barcelos (15th century). The tower which extended over the bridge and three of the four chimneys with tall pipes are missing; these symbolised the wealthiest house in Bracelos. This is where the Archaeological Museum is situated. Among its exhibits one should highlight the Cock Transept (17th/18th century), an ex-libris of Barcelos, which illustrates the miracle performed on a Galizian pilgrim who was unfairly sentenced; St.James kept him at the gallows until his innocence was proved by the crowing of a cock, which had already been cooked. The Transept was situated near the gallows, in Barcelinhos, on the roadside of one of the roads to Santiago.

                The Tower of the New Bridge - this is the only tower remaining from the 15th century fortress walls, which protected the entrance to the town on the northern side. It was initially in a U-shape, open to the interior of the town, allowing for the passage around a bend, so as to control entries. It has been extended and was a prison from the 12th century until 1932. This is where the Handicrafts Centre and the Tourism Office are now housed.

                Temple of the Good Jesus of the Cross (18th century). Its origin is connected with the miraculous appearance of a Cross in black soil on the muddy ground at the Market Square, in 1504. Inside the church one can see beautiful panels of blue and white tiles. This miracle gave rise to the Feast of the Crosses - on the 3rd of May (municipal holiday). The Seat Walkway, dating from the 18th century, consitutes a monumental entrance to this temple.

                The Church of Our Lady of the Rosary (18th century) - possesses one of the most exquisite barroque interiors in Portugal, due to the tiles which line the walls, the carvings on the altars and the paintings on the ceiling.

                The Museum of  Pottery - opened to the public in 1995, it possesses a magnificent collection of ceramic pieces from all over the country, from Portuguese-speaking countries as well as others.

                The Market in Barcelos, on Thursdays, undoubtedly deserves a visit. It is one of the most appreciated in Portugal, due to its colour and great size, the variety of products as well as the rich handicrafts.

                On leaving Barcelos, we return to cobblestone paths, towards Abade de Neiva, past the Church of St.Amaro (17th century). We will then have to cross the National Road (Take care here). The Road takes us past the romanic church of Abade do Neiva, which is said to have been founded by D.Mafalda, Afonso Henriques’s wife. It has a battlement tower, attributed to the reign of D.Dinis. There is also a small niche in the shape of a scallop, which indicates the Way to Santiago.

                To go into Vila Boa, you will have to cross the National Road (Take care here). We then walk past the Chapel of the Holy Spirit (16th century) and a few houses which date back to the beginning of the 18th century. The Way, which continues along a sandroad, was cut by the construction of a railroad - the Minho Line (Be very careful here : unguarded railway crossing).

                We go into Lijó at the bridge over the Pedrinho Bridge, which recently replaced an older one. We then go past the St.Sebastian Chapel, already referred to as old in the 18th century, and past the Saint Cross Chapel, which marks the miracle of the appearance of a cross, in 1843.

                We then continue to Tamel (S.Pedro Fins), past the Parish church as well as the Chapel of Our Lady of Portela (!7th century); on the shaft of the Transept at Our Lady of Portela one finds a staff with a gourd and a scallop.

                We then have to cross and follow the National Road for a few metres, to go into Aborim (Take care here). Passing through the village, the Way continues through cultivated fields and streams. There is an alternative route, in Winter, which goes past the Old Church in Aborim.

                In Aguiar, the Way to Santiago was abandoned, so we will have to go around the delineated route and then back to it further on. There was once an inn nearby, mentioned in the 16th century. We then cross the Neiva River, at Ponte das Tábuas (the Wooden Plank Bridge), in large granite flagstones, which replaced the other, made of wooden planks, previously mentioned in the 12th century.

                To enter the Balugães village you will have to cross the National Road (Take care here). This is where two roads to Santiago crossed each other, one going in the direction of of Viana do Castelo and the other towards Ponte de Lima, which is the one followed on this trail. It is worth visiting the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Aparecida (18th century): under the chapel built on a rock, where a miracle was performed on João Mudo (a dumb person), who got his speech back, there is a very low and narrow passageway carved into the rock, along which, it is believed, only those in a state of grace are able to pass (try it !).  A great annual pilgrimage is held here, on the 15th of August. Continuing the climb to the top of Monte da Carmona, we shall see the remains of a settlement from the Iron Age, and we can enjoy the fabulous view of the Neiva River valley and of the sea.

                The route then continues to the village of Poiares, now in the municipal area of Ponte de Lima.

The Ways to Santiago Barcelos

Special care and rules of behaviour

-  Beware of cattle. Though tame they do not like having strangers approach their young;

-  Follow the indicated paths only;

-  Avoid making a noise and behaving in a manner which may disturb the tranquillity of the area;

-  Observe the fauna from a distance, preferably through binoculars;

-  Do not leave rubbish behind - take it to an area where there is rubbish collection;

-  Close gates and stiles;

-  Respect private property;

-  Do not light fires;

-  Be pleasant to the local inhabitants, explaining your activity and the GR indications to them;

Hostel

"A Recoleta"
Rua da Recoleta, nº 100
Tel: 253 884360 / Tlm: 96 2514730 / 96 44 31 863

Information

Tourist Office
Largo Dr. Jose Novais, nº8
4750-310 Barcelos
Tel: +351 253 811 882 Fax: 351 253 822 188
Email: turismo@cm-barcelos.pt